Which phthalates are restricted or banned in cosmetics and fragrance products? Cover what phthalates are, which ones cosmetics have used (DBP, DEP, DEHP, BBP and others), their status under EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 Annex II and III, UK cosmetics rules, Washington State's Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act (RCW 70A.560) ortho-phthalate ban and dates, California rules, FDA's position in the US, and what 'phthalate-free' claims mean.
Phthalates are banned or restricted in cosmetics mainly by ingredient-by-ingredient listing. The EU and Great Britain prohibit DBP, DEHP, BBP and the other reproductive-toxicant phthalates. Washington bans the whole ortho-phthalate class. California bans DBP and DEHP and has a wider list coming in 2027. The US federal government has no phthalate ban. DEP, the phthalate still used in fragrance, is not prohibited under EU or GB cosmetics law; Washington's class ban covers it when it is intentionally added.
Approach. I searched the current EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 (consolidated text dated 1 May 2026 plus its amending acts), the GB retained version, Washington Ecology's Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act (TFCA) restricted list and its Chemicals of High Concern to Children (CHCC) list, California's Safe Cosmetics Program reportable list and the Prop 65 list, FDA's cosmetics prohibited/restricted list, and Health Canada's Hotlist. I searched by "phthalate", "ortho" and by CAS number. The California statute text, the RCW text and FDA's phthalates page came from search snippets of official sites (leginfo.legislature.ca.gov, app.leg.wa.gov, fda.gov). I did not read the full pages.
What phthalates are and how cosmetics used them
- Definition: ortho-phthalates are esters of ortho-phthalic acid. They have largely been phased out of cosmetic formulas but are still sometimes used as a fixative and solvent in fragrances (Washington Ecology snippet).
- Historical uses (FDA):
- DBP as a plasticizer in nail polish.
- DMP in hair sprays.
- DEP as a solvent and fixative in fragrance.
- Current use (FDA): FDA's 2010 survey found DBP and DMP used rarely. DEP appeared to be the only phthalate still commonly used.
EU: Regulation 1223/2009, Annex II (prohibited)
| Ref. | Substance | CAS |
|---|---|---|
| 675 | Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) | 84-74-2 [1] |
| 677 | DEHP | 117-81-7 [2] |
| 678 | bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate | 117-82-8 [3] |
| 1151 | Dipentyl phthalates (n-, iso-, n-pentyl-isopentyl) | 84777-06-0; 131-18-0; 605-50-5 [4] |
| 1152 | Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) | 85-68-7 [5] |
| 1492 | Diisobutyl phthalate | 84-69-5 [6] |
| 1559 | Dihexyl phthalate | 84-75-3 [7] |
| 1637 | Dicyclohexyl phthalate | 84-61-7 [8] |
| 1652 | Diisohexyl phthalate | 71850-09-4 [9] |
| 1667 | Diisooctyl phthalate | 27554-26-3 [10] |
- How the later entries were added: several came through amending regulations: 2019/831 (entries 1492 and 1559), 2019/1966 (1637) and 2021/1902 (1667) [11][12][13].
- Why diisohexyl phthalate was added: Regulation 2021/850 added it under Article 15 as a CMR substance after no one requested an exception for it [14].
- No phthalate in Annex III: I found no phthalate listed as a restricted ingredient. DEP and DMP returned no entry in any annex.
- New impurity limit for DnHexP: Regulation 2026/909 changes Annex VI entry 28, the UV filter DHHB. Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHexP) as an unavoidable trace impurity in DHHB must not exceed 10 ppm [15].
Great Britain
- Same prohibited list: the GB Annex II carries the same ten phthalate entries, including DBP 675, DEHP 677, BBP 1152 and diisobutyl phthalate 1492 [18][19][20][21].
- One numbering difference: GB numbers diisohexyl phthalate 1653; the EU uses 1652 [22].
- No DnHexP limit yet: the GB entry for DHHB still shows only the 10 % maximum, with no DnHexP impurity condition [23].
Washington State (TFCA, RCW 70A.560)
-
Class-wide ban: Ecology lists ortho-phthalates as a statutory restriction at the "intentionally added" level, effective 1 January 2025 [24].
-
Statute (RCW 70A.560.020, from the snippet): no one may make, knowingly sell or distribute a cosmetic containing intentionally added ortho-phthalates. In-state retailers could sell existing stock until 1 January 2026. The ban covers the whole class, so DEP is included.
-
Children's products (a separate law): the CHCC list marks these phthalates as restricted:
DEP is reportable on that list but not restricted [31].
California
- Ban from 1 January 2025: Health & Safety Code §108980 (AB 2762, as amended by AB 496) prohibits intentionally added DBP and DEHP from that date. Technically unavoidable trace quantities are exempt (leginfo snippet).
- Wider list from 1 January 2027: AB 496 adds further banned ingredients. The snippets I saw do not list which ones, so I can't confirm whether other phthalates are on it.
- Disclosure under the Safe Cosmetics Program:
- Prop 65 warning listings:
FDA (US federal)
- Not on FDA's list: FDA's list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients names no phthalate. It covers items such as vinyl chloride, chloroform and bithionol [47][48].
- FDA's stated position (fda.gov): FDA has no safety concerns with DEP as currently used in cosmetics and fragrances. It found no sound scientific basis for regulatory action against cosmetics containing phthalates. It also notes that the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel found DBP, DMP and DEP safe as used in 2002.
- Canada, for comparison: DEHP is prohibited [49].
What "phthalate-free" means
I found no official definition of "phthalate-free" from FDA, the FTC, the EU or the UK. In the US the claim falls under the general rule that labeling must be truthful and not misleading. FDA oversees labeling claims and the FTC oversees advertising claims.
The practical risk is fragrance. US rules do not require individual fragrance ingredients to be listed, so DEP can sit undisclosed under "fragrance" (FDA). Supporting the claim therefore needs supplier confirmation for the fragrance compound, not just a check of the ingredient list.
Sources:
SOURCES · 49
- [1]Dibutyl phthalate (Annex ref 675) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [2]bis(2-Ethylhexyl) phthalate (Diethylhexyl phthalate) (Annex ref 677) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [3]bis(2-Methoxyethyl) phthalate (Annex ref 678) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [4]1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched and linear [1]; n-Pentyl-isopentylphthalate [2]; di-n-Pentyl phthalate [3]; Diisopentylphthalate [4] (Annex ref 1151) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [5]Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) (Annex ref 1152) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [6]Diisobutyl phthalate (Annex ref 1492) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [7]Dihexyl phthalate (Annex ref 1559) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [8]Dicyclohexyl phthalate (Annex ref 1637) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [9]Diisohexyl phthalate (Annex ref 1652) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [10]Diisooctyl phthalate (Annex ref 1667) [Cosmetics 02009R1223-20260501] · p.1EU
- [11]Dihexyl phthalate (Annex ref 1559) [Cosmetics 32019R0831] · p.1EU
- [12]Dicyclohexyl phthalate (Annex ref 1637) [Cosmetics 32019R1966] · p.1EU
- [13]Diisooctyl phthalate (Annex ref 1667) [Cosmetics 32021R1902] · p.1EU
- [14]Recital 11 [Cosmetics 32021R0850] · p.1EU
- [15]Benzoic acid, 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2- hydroxybenzoyl]-, hexyl ester (****) (Annex ref 28) [Cosmetics 32026R0909] · p.1EU
- [16]Recital 39 [Cosmetics 32026R0909] · p.1EU
- [17]Article 2 [Cosmetics 32026R0909] · p.1EU
- [18]Dibutyl phthalate (Annex II ref 675) · p.1UK
- [19]bis(2-Ethylhexyl) phthalate (Diethylhexyl phthalate) (Annex II ref 677) · p.1UK
- [20]Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) (Annex II ref 1152) · p.1UK
- [21]Diisobutyl phthalate (Annex II ref 1492) · p.1UK
- [22]Diisohexyl phthalate (Annex II ref 1653) · p.1UK
- [23]Benzoic acid, 2-[-4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]-. Hexylester (Annex VI ref 28) · p.1UK
- [24]Ortho-phthalates · p.1Washington
- [25]Di-n-butyl phthalate (DBP) (CAS 84-74-2) · p.1Washington
- [26]Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) (CAS 117-81-7) · p.1Washington
- [27]Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) (CAS 85-68-7) · p.1Washington
- [28]Diisononyl phthalate (unbranched) (DINP) (CAS 28553-12-0) · p.1Washington
- [29]Diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP) (CAS 26761-40-0) · p.1Washington
- [30]Di-n-octyl phthalate (DnOP) (CAS 117-84-0) · p.1Washington
- [31]Diethyl phthalate (DEP) (CAS 84-66-2) · p.1Washington
- [32]Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)California
- [33]Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP)California
- [34]Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)California
- [35]Diisononyl phthalate (DINP)California
- [36]Mono-2-methyl-2-hydroxypropyl phthalateCalifornia
- [37]Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP)California
- [38]Di-n-Octyl Phthalate (DNOP)California
- [39]Diethyl phthalate (DEP)California
- [40]Dimethyl phthalate (DMP)California
- [41]Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP) · p.1OEHHA
- [42]Di-n-butyl Phthalate (DBP) · p.1OEHHA
- [43]Butyl Benzyl Phthalate · p.1OEHHA
- [44]Di-n-hexyl Phthalate (DnHP) · p.1OEHHA
- [45]Di-isodecyl Phthalate (DIDP) · p.1OEHHA
- [46]Diisononyl Phthalate (DINP) · p.1OEHHA
- [47]Vinyl chloride · p.1FDA
- [48]Chloroform · p.1FDA
- [49]Diethylhexyl phthalate (prohibited - en) · p.1Health Canada